la Sierra Norte

I'm back in Oaxaca City and I can't believe that just this morning I was trekking though some incredible mountains. I am already sad that I chose to return to the city. I think it was a mistake.

Early yesterday morning (was it just yesterday?!) I got on a bus that climbed up up up into the mountains to the Pueblos Mancomunados. I arrived in Llano Grande (population of about 80) and easily found the ecotourism office, where I met two guys from Spain, Asier and Javier. We decided to share a guide on our hike to Piedra Larga. Our guide showed up shortly and I said to myself, "wow... this kid can't be more than 13 years old!" It turns out Roderigo is 12 and has been guiding for 3 years. And while it may seem suspect to put your life in the hands of a 12 year old boy, let me tell you that this kid was amazing. He knew the land like the back of his hand, and expertly and effortlessly led us on a 4 hour hike. The trails were well-maintained but entirely unmarked; even a hearty woodsperson would be lost on the network of forked paths and turnoffs in a matter of 30 minutes. But Roderigo confidently led the way. Just think for a minute... imagine the place you know best...maybe your hometown, maybe where you live now. Be it a city or completely rural, could YOU walk in any direction for 2 hours and know where you are without a map? And speaking of maps, Roderigo never uses one. Turns out he just learned the land from growing up there and taking walks. No compass, no map, no problem.

The hike itself was wonderful. After 2 hours of hiking through such varied fauna (at one point giant grasses made me feel like I was in the movie Honey, I Shrunk the Kids)and peeking at lovely views and crossing all manner of fascinating contraptions to go through, over, and around fences designed to keep cows in place, we made it to our destination... a rocky outcrop with such breathtaking views and mind-twisting altitude that I could decide if I should pass out with joy or faint from fear. I will one day (I hope) get the pictures up, but I'm not rushing since they will do no justice to the experience. I was perfectly content on the hike back and after sharing a soda with Roderigo and the Spanish guys, I headed for my mountain cabana. I took an amazing hot shower (better than in most hostels), visited the outhouse, and cozied up under many blankets... at 3200 meters above sea level, it got pretty chilly! Let me tell you, there is no happiness quite like a wonderful hike, a warm shower, and snuggling under thick covers in a quiet mountain pueblo on a cold night. I was about as content as could be.

This morning I took a bus to a larger (population 1000) pueblo neighboring Llano Grande called Cuajilomoyas. I happened to meet my guide for the day before even reaching the office, as she was the lady I asked for directions. Sonia was a kind woman who led me through the woods while wearing a kitchen apron, sweater, skirt, and what appeared to be house slippers. This lady was awesome. She pointed out all manner of plants and flowers, explaining their names and various medicinal properties. She was a walking treasure trove of natural medicine knowledge, and dispensed her wisdom easily and casually. On our walk we encountered numerous wonders, such as a strange pond that looks opaque and green until you throw in some bread crumbs to feed the fish who then furiously swim to the surface. The trails were twisted and interesting, full of exciting tight curves, ascents, and descents... and wonderful, verdant scenery. Our destination was el Canon del Coyote, a narrow passage between two sheer rocks, at the end of which is a coyote den. We also trekked through a cave (Cueva de Calveria?) where pueblo residents hid during the government attacks during the Revolution. Right around the cave was el Mirador de Calveria, a spiny rocky pinnacle that poked up through the trees, affording rewarding views to those who climbed it (we only went partway, due to ye olde fear of heights that I was sure to pack in my bag). Further along, though, we went to el Mirador de Piedra Colorada, another outlook with a slightly more inviting summit. There Sonia and I sat and ate snacks and chatted and drank in the majesty of the experience. The hike back was more or less along a dirt road, affording a more relaxed walk (and a chance to look at the various bulls and cows and goats in the area).

When we arrived back at the town and the office, I foolishly decided not to spend the night (oh regret) and caught the next bus back to the city. As if to make up for my mistake, I went ahead this afternoon and booked my all-day bus ride to the coast tomorrow. I am not generally a beach person, but I am going to try and keep an open mind and spend a few days taking in the Pacific. I have some reservations about the next 5 days of my trip, though it is nothing I can put my finger on. I hope my nameless hunches are foundless.

I am excited, however, to return to Mexico City after that and spend some time there with new friends. And then... back to the US. I think I am ready, which is good.

Best wishes to all.