Most of the time I am eager to update my blog, ready to describe all sorts of adventures and ruminations. Strangely, I have not felt the same enthusiasm for typing things up in an entertaining but factual manner, and I apologize to you, my loyal reader(s). My stay in Oaxaca has been enjoyable and protracted. Yesterday I went to nearby Monte Albán, a majestic hilltop site of what used to be the capital of the Zapotec empire. Even though the site is old and is considered "las ruinas," the structures are rather well preserved (have only been discovered and cleared from the jungle in the last century). It was breathtaking--stunning vistas of the ancient city and distant valleys and mountains, magnificent stone edifices and pyramids, gloriously perfect weather... I can't wait to upload the pictures (I've been rather lame in that area). That afternoon I visited la Central de Abastos, a HUGE market full of mazes of stalls of EVERYTHING you could want to buy... from produces to clothes to pet supplies to pets to meats to accessories to health supplies to hardware to electronics to homegoods to live turkeys. Yep, get your live turkey here is aisle 124-A3 (actually there are no aisle numbers... the best way to navigate is to wander aimlessly and for a long time taking random turns and ducking your head from the low-hanging mechandise). Today I visited another Zapotec site at Mitla... this city became the HQ of the zapotecs when Monte Albán declined, and the ruins there are less grand in scale but sport some amazing geometric stone work and a few underground "tumbas." It is worth noting that Oaxaca is the most diverse state in Mexico, with numerous indigenous populations and over 15 indigenous languages spoken. Zapotecs are the most populus in the Central Valleys where Oaxaca City is located, and you can hear it being spoken on the street if you listen carefully in the right places. One of those places is Tlacolula, a city between Oaxaca and Mitla where I stopped for a peek around, as is El Tule, a nearby pueblo boasting a gigantic cypress tree that is over 2000 years old and very, very large. Last night I managed to get into a presentation of classical music in one of the theatres for free here, and I am going to try and do the same tonight, as I have befriended the gentlemen who has access to the extra tickets. That having been said, I have found it less easy to make all kinds of new friends in the recent part of my trip. I don't know if I am less outgoing or I have just been less lucky in meeting friendly travellers, but I've been keeping to myself more lately. (Not that this prevented the guy next to me on the bus today from going on and on about "kids these days" and his thoughts about going to the US... I didn't understand most of what he said, but he seemed content to hear himself pontificate and felt encouraged to continue by a simple nod or two on my behalf.) Tomorrow I am headed into the Sierra Norte mountains for two days of hiking. The area I will be in are the Pueblos Mancomunadas, a commonwealth of villages that operate as a somewhat autonomous group, who have collectivelly decided to support their land and pueblos through ecotourism. I wish I were able to go with someone, another traveller perhaps, but no such luck. I am smart enough, however, to have hired a guide and I hope he or she (probably he) will turn out to be friendly company. A big shout out to recent birthday buddies (KA, SJS, RPS), and I wish everyone health and happiness. I am eager to share both with you soon!
(On a side note... in my spare time I have kept busy by designing my dream house and "solving"--i.e. frustratedly but doggedly working on--a cheaply made faux Rubik's Cube...)
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