Callejoneadas

While there is more to write about my time in Guanajuato (such as my visit to the mines and a chance re-encounter with Nick from Morelia), I wish to spend the next few minutes describing a fantastic (though perhaps a wee bit touristy) tradition in Guanajuato. First, you should know that the Spanish word for street is "calle" and that Guanajuato is filled with many winding "callejones," or alleys. It is along these callejones that we enjoy callejoneadas...

It begins sometime around 8 or 9 in the evening in the lively and beautiful Jardín de la Union, where musicians clad in impressive traditional costumes start to play music before a growing crowd the the stepped entry to the church in the square. Playing all manner of stringed instruments and a lively tamborine, the tenor- and bass-voiced troubadors sing such classics as "Cielito Lindo" and "De Colores" (and other songs that are actually well-known to Mexicans but not to this gringa). They crack jokes in Spanish and will sell you a ceramic vase as a souvenier. Then the whole band starts to walk through the callejones, singing and walking and being followed by the mob in a sort of delightful procession. Along the way, they will fill your vase with juice to be enjoyed during the evening (I think it used to be wine or tequila that was distrubuted back in the day, but some enterprising fellows brought some spirits to add to their vases!). And so it goes, walking and singing and winding through the streets. I tagged along yesterday and today, but bailed early due to rain and the lack of purchase of the ceramic vase. I´m not sure if I can get such a tradition to start in Wellesley, but you are all invited... let´s go playing music and singing down Cottage Street in the middle of the night! You can see why some things are just better in Mexico.